03 Puerto Natales and Torres del Paine National Park

Loved Puerto Natales. Small town by a lake - or maybe the harbour just looks like a lake. From here, the ferries leave twice a week for Puerto Montt.

Hostal Lili Patagonicos is a beautifully light, colourful hostel, with friendly staff. A guide from the National Park visits every afternoon, and for those who don't have their own, hiking equipment can be rented.

And so to the National Park. Arrived on Tuesday, January 17th, to the news that French Valley would be opening within the next day or so, though there were still 2 fires that were being fought over the southern side. The pass was still closed, but the campsites on the northern side - Seron, Dickson and Perros - were all open.

Beautiful day, so pitched tent to face the towers, and set off to walk up to the Torres 'mirador`and back. Hard slog in hot sunshine, and I was relieved not to be carrying my loaded backpack. The view at the top was worth the effort. Despite a little bit of mist over one of them, the towers shone above a beautiful milky turquoise lake.

Later back at the campsite, some young people from Santiago came and spoke to me, and invited me to share their picnic table, and to eat my food with them. Really friendly people: a young couple who did a lot of walking, and their older architect sister, who had never been to the park before.

I'm NOT a celebrity - get me out of here!

Wed 18th. Despite early morning alarm call from some very vocal birds on the campsite, didn't get to see the sunrise over the towers this morning - too overcast - so was even more glad I hadn't lugged the camping gear up the mountain. Today was the first real backpacking day, and have to admit it was more an endurance test than a pleasure. Even the scenery, for the first part, walking in this direction on an overcast day, was reminiscent of the bleaker parts of north Wales.

First hour or two was uphill, the pack was too heavy, and to make things worse, the buckle on my backpack broke, meaning that all the weight was on my back and shoulders. I'm not a quitter, but I nearly gave up and went back. However, just as I was contemplating this, a Canadian couple walking in the opposite direction told me that I had already done all the hard bit, the rest was flat or downhill, and that I couldn't possible miss Dickson. So encouraged, I somehow struggled the rest of the way to Seron, arriving totally exhausted. Got my tent up, made some food, and crashed out for a full 10 hours!

Seron campsite

Walking through trees bent by the wind

Thurs 19th. Woke feeling like a 'new woman', so decided to continue to Dickson with minimum supplies, and spend either one or two nights there. Left stove and 3 days' food behind, and enjoyed the most beautiful walk to Dickson. Impressed by Fernanda, a park guide, who asked everybody where they were going, and gave advice. Also by the other guides patrolling the stretch between Seron and Dickson, obviously trying to keep both people and park safe, and checking that everyone was OK and not in need of help.

First part of the walk was flat, along a river meadow, covered in wild flowers, to the first of the lakes. After a while, you got some far-off glimpses of the glacier near Dickson, and soon your efforts were rewarded with a panorama of mountains, with the 'Puma' glacier getting ever nearer.

From the trail between Seron and Dickson

Arrived at Dickson just after 3, having taken 6.5 hours. Breathtaking setting near a lake, facing the glacier - though this could be appreciated mainly from the trails above it. As soon as I had pitched my tent, Dario, an agriculture student from Santiago came over to chat, asking if I remembered him from the Torres campsite. He was travelling with Thomas, a Business Administration student, and they had met up with another Thomas - student journalist - and his veterinary student friend, Filipe. The four of them befriended me over the next few days, giving me good company, and frequently offering help. Also became friendly with Maggie, a Canadian product designer for a toy company, walking with a guy from Bristol and another from New Zealand, plus a guide, and a porter also called Dario.

Dickson campsite

Friday 20th Long day today, but walking with a daypack only - bliss! Planned only to walk to Perros and back, about 4 hours each way. Left at 8.10 for an easy walk through old trees, finally reaching a view of a glacier from a bridge. Coming out of the trees, you walk across some stones up to a better view of the glacier, with a lake in front of it. Continued to the Perros campsite, nicely set among trees - where some Chileans were practising tight rope walking, set up between some trees!

Met some Australians just before I got there, who told me that the pass had been opened just the day before, and that the view from there onto the Grey Glacier was unmissable. Torn, but thought there would not be time to do it. However, staff at Perros told me that it was only 6 hours there and back, and that I could rent a tent and sleeping bag if I wanted to stay at Perros. Decided to go for it, and left at 12.45. Relatively easy walk up through some trees - apart from nearly losing a boot in a bog - and then up through stones to the pass, with towering mountains either side, looking wonderful in the sunshine, against clear blue skies.  Once out of teh trees, the way was well marked with orange-tipped poles. Reached the pass at 3.30, and there in front of me was the enormous Grey glacier. A Chilean guy came up from somewhere below, to tell me that the views were even better if you dropped down 10 or 15 minutes. He was right. There with two friends, he sat sipping mate from the traditional metal mug with a straw. Looked a bit like mustard, and I accepted his invitation to try some - yuk!

For a multi-day trek you need a fair bit of kit - and food

Grey glacier, from just below the pass

Stayed half an hour, then returned to Perros by 6.30. Feeling great, so decided to walk back to Dickson. Perros staff said it was OK, and phoned Dickson to tell them I was on my way. When I got there, at 9.55 (still with another 45 minutes´ daylight to go), I was thoroughly spoilt. Chef was waiting outside the lodge, and asked if I wanted food or hot water. Took my oxtail soup over for hot water, and he gave me a large cup full of his stew to go with it. Asked the lodge owner if I could use the campsite shower, even though I was an hour later than 'last shower' time. Not only did he agree to this, but insisted I should go inside the lodge and use that one instead. Half the campsite seemed to know where I'd been, and came over to chat - finally got to ´bed´ (or rather 'bag') and crashed out. If I could get this much sleep at home, I´d be full of energy all the time!

Saturday 21st Cooler today, and a bit overcast. Tired, and took about 7 hours to return to Seron, where I was reunited with my stove and pasta. Ate, and then enjoyed the evening socialising. One of the enjoyable things about treks like this is that you meet people from all over the world. Over the course of the trek, I met people from Chile, Argentina, Brazil, USA, Israel, Australia, New Zealand, Romania, Japan, Taiwan, Slovakia, Holland, Germany, Italy, Spain, France - and even a few from the UK. And that´s just the countries that I remember speaking to people from . . . . .

Dario and Thomas from Santiago

Tonight, an Israeli guy showed us how to make coffee Israeli style (boil up the coffee twice, then add sugar, then boil up again) - and entertained us by pointing out the merits of a tin of tuna. ('Tastes disgusting', but provides nutrition, has a lid to cut things with, etc.) Claimed that a tuna tin saved his life in the mountains once when he was in the army, and needed a helicopter rescue . . . (Bit sensitive at the moment though, in view of the recent fires. Can´t help wondering if  tuna oil was responsible?)

Sunday 22nd. Return to Torres, and today it was goodbye to Dario and Thomas, who were leaving the park. Thomas 2 and Filipe still had an extra day, and caught me up shortly before the Torres, pointing out condors as we neared the campsite. Much better views coming this way, and I coped better with the heavy backpack - now with 4 days less food supplies.

Condor

Monday 23rd. Thought about getting up to watch the sunrise, but tired, so watched it through the tent flap instead!

Sunrise - from the tent

Why bother getting out of the sleeping bag?

Another hard but beautiful day, heading to Cuernos campsite, at the base of the French valley. Walk takes you along by 2 or 3 lakes, with good views all the way.

Japanese sock - caused him great hilarity to be caught with his boot off.

Trail map between Las Torres and Cuernos - always good to see where you are

Two rather hairy river crossings, a little over halfway. In this direction, took 6 hours - compared with less than 4 coming back. Helped over the rivers by Etienne: very nice young French guy, who took his own stuff, went back for his girlfriend Clare's, then came back to help me.

Met some Irish people, John and Antonia, whom I met again 2 days later. Campsite was heaving, and the wind had become quite ferocious, but found a great sheltered little hollow, next to another young French couple, who I also met again on the way back to Puerto Natales, with John and Antonia. Maggie and co were also here, and their porter, Dario, offered to take anything I didn't need back to Puerto Natales for me, since he no longer had food to carry, and Perto Natales was his home.

Cooked my last pasta, then gave Dario the stove and a couple of other bits and pieces, that left me with at least a kilo less to carry. He also told me that he'd already contacted Lili Patagonia for me, to change my reservation from Monday to Wednesday. What a lovely man!  I´d been trying to do that for half of Sunday afternoon, but the satellite phones at the refugio and hotel had been out of order. He also came up with a rucksack buckle from nowhere, though unfortunately it didn't fit.

Enjoyed the sunset from the tent.

Sunset at Cuernos - viewed from tent

Tuesday 24th. Long but beautiful day in the French valley - 11 hours return. Walk takes you by a lake up to a glacier, and ultimately to a viewpoint with a panorama of mountains and rock formations. Stunning valley, in beautiful weather.

Wed 25th. Returned to Torres, and out of the park, back to Puerto Natales - after walking just 20 minutes up a path from outside the park office, to see guanacho.

Guanaco

Cooler today, and a little bit overcast, so the stretch from Cuernes to Torres was much easier, with the uphill section being covered in the cool of the morning. Rivers also much lower, and Pablo from Santiago waited for me and helped me across. Back to Torres before 12, having left just after 8.

Tero

Here met up with John and Antonia, and the French couple who had been my neighbours at Cuernos, the first night. We were all on the 2.30 bus back to Lili Patagonicos.

French and Irish

Wonderful salmon meal at the restaurant by the harbour, together with John and Antonia. (5,000 Chilean pesos, around 6 or 7 GBP, and not a noodle or peanut in sight!) Portions were great: John had steak, egg and chips, and was given 3 huge slices of steak!

Thursday, 26th. Rest day, strolling around Puerto Natales, while waiting for the evening bus to El Calafate. Got a replacement rucksack buckle: hooray!